History

Garazi-Baigorri since time memorial, a point of passage…

Throughout history, the Basque Country, and notably Garazi (Cize) was an important passage in the crossing of the Pyreenes.

The ancient summet road was used by the Romans, the Visigoths, the Franks, the pilgrims of Jacob’s way, merchants and Napolean’s armies. The Roman’s presence is exemplifyed by the remnants of the Roman camp at Saint Jean Le Vieux (Imus Pyrenaeus), an ancient control post on the Bordeaux-Astorga route.  
Another example being the tower of Urkulu in the confines of Lower-Navarre and Navarre

The Franks left no material traces of their passage. Nevertheless, history was indelibly marked when, at Roncevaux and Garazi in 778, the Basques attacked Roland and the rearguard of Charlemagnes army.
Vestiges of the Middle Ages are bountiful on Jacob’s way. Amongst these, one finds hospices (Ospitalea), numerous crossroad crosses (Renaissance) such as Galtzetaburu or Sarrasquette and especially Saint-Jean-Pied de Port, a town which came into its own at the end of the 12th century.

On the road to Urkulu, the remains of Château Pignon, are found. This defensive Castle built by the Spanish during the conquest of Navarre in 1512 and destructed by the Spanish during the Napoleonic wars, served in the surveillance of the road traversing the Pyreenes.

The very same purpose was attributed to the redoutes of Belle Ezponda at Saint Jean le Vieux or Kurutxamendi at Saint Jean Pied de Port, each of which were commanded by the armies of the revolution and Napoleon (from whence the name : “Napoléons route” .

The route still takes the mountain passes and lends itself to the seasonal passage to summer pastures for livestock and to the movement of hunters and hikers alike.

 

Architecture and religious art

Jacob’s way opened the region of Saint Jean Pied de Port to Christianity.

Religious architecture and art are of notable interest.

• The presence of Roman architecture in St Jean Pied de Port can be found in the example of the portal of the ancient Sainte Eulalie Church (today a retirement home). Another example being Saint Jean le Vieux Parish Church..
• The gothic style is represented by Notre Dame Church in St Jean Pied de Port (14th century).

Elsewhere, small churches and chapelles abound, giving evidence to popular art.

 

Religious edifices in the Basque Country often form pairs. This is the case with the twin chapelles of Bascassan and Alciette. Their Roman structures and colorful naive decor are almost identical. Can you find the differences ?
In the cemeteries, in place of the cross, one finds the discoidal gravestones.
These curious sculptures evoke, for some, the form of a humanoid, for others, a solar representation. Dating from the 16th or 17th centuries, these elaborate gravestones feature the engravings of different crafts such as carpentry, stone cutting and masonry. In Mendive, the stone carries the symbols of the weavers.

The history of the Baigorri valley

Archeological evidence and prehistoric vestiges demonstrate that the Baigorri valley, and notably the Aldudes Valley (Banca, Aldudes and Urepel villages) were humanized during prehistory.
Numerous hill-top and mountain peak dolmens and cromlechs, located near seasonal passage routes, demonstrate the pastoral nature of early settlement. The remains of Roman mines in Banca and Urepel, as well as Roman camps and roads, attest to the importance of human activity during the Roman period. In the village of Banca, an ancient suburb of Saint Etienne de Baigorry, an important copper mine and foundry employed nearly 400 people. These still visible ruins are the only evidence of past industrial activity in the valley.

Baigorri valley was a part of the Kingdom of Navarre for 10 centuries. Navarre was annexed by the king of Castille in 1512.  Basse-Navarre (Baigorri) became French in 1589 under Henry the 4th.  
During the Middle Ages, towns were grouped into cantons. At this time, the towns of Ossès Valley (Ossès, Bidarray, St Martin d’arrossa) fused with those of the Baigorri Valley to form the still existant Canton of Baigorri. 

Baigorri Valley carries the coat of arms of the Etchauz family who ruled the valley for 5 centuries. Knowns as Vicomtes of Baigorri and Etchauz, they retained possession of the castle for 800 years. The family was quite distinguished at the French court and  Bertrand d’Etchauz was named Bishop of Bayonne in 1599 and became the chief confident of Louis XIII.
During the revolution, the castle, now state property was sold to the father of the future Marechal Harispe. This most famous denizen of Baigorri, Jean Isidore Harispe, was commissioned by Napoleon to create the light infantry battallion, known as the Chasseurs Basques (The Basque Rifles)..
In 1850, the castle was bought by the Abbadie d’Arrast family. The screen writer, Harry d’Abbadie d’Arrost received at the Castle Charlie Chaplin, for whom he wrote scripts.    


At the end of 15th century, population pressure forced the younger siblings of St Etienne de Baigorry to inhabit the outskirts and pasture lands. This zone, known as  Pays Quint, became a no man’s land of the kingdom of Navarre, not French, not Spanish but rather a Basque enclave. 
In this context, during the 17th century, the villages of Banca, Les Aldudes and Urepel, were founded. However, these settlements instigated numerous conflicts until the signing of the treaty of Bayonne in 1856. As a result, the inhabitants of the valley of Baigorri possess exclusive grazing rights in Pays Quint (Kintoa). France, in return pays an annual fee to compensate the affected parties in the Spanish valley of Baztan and Erro. Each year, at the end of May, the cattle of Baigorri are branded V.E (Valley of Erro) before being driven into this no man’s land of Kintoa. 

Another oddity is the strange status of the citizens of Urepel. They pay their taxes to Spain but live, go to school in France and receive their social security in France  ! At present, the canton of Baigorri is composed of 11 villages : St Etienne de Baigorry, Banca, Les Aldudes, Urepel, Bidarray, Ossès, St Martin d’Arrossa, Irouléguy, Ascarat, Anhaux and Lasse. As a natural enclave at the Spanish border, the Baigorri Valley has preserved its pastoral character and the best of its traditions. Each village has a story to tell and a treasure to unveil !